Insider Tips & Tricks

Three Simple Steps

When it comes to rugs, it the moth larvae, not the moth itself, that is the enemy. The moth larvae feast on wool and wool rugs are the perfect food. The adult moths lay eggs on products that the larvae will consume, like wool rugs. The larvae thrive in dark, undisturbed area of a rug, particularly areas that may not get regularly vacuumed. By following these three simple steps, you can take action to prevent moth damage to a rug:

To prevent moth damage:

• Vacuum the entire face of the rug weekly if possible. At least several times a year, vacuum the back side of the rug and the pad and floor underneath. If the rug is too large to handle, flip the edges over, and vacuum at least one to two feet in along the borders on the back side of the rug. The corresponding areas on the pad and floor should also be vacuumed.
• Any place the vacuum cannot reach, such as areas of the rug under furniture, or a rug hung on the wall, can be sprayed with a household, non-staining insecticide made for the purpose. Most of these products contain pyrethrins (a class of insecticide originally extracted from the flower heads of chrysanthemums) among the active ingredients. Although poisonous to many varieties of insects, pyrethrins break down quickly after application and are considered safe for use in the home. BE CAREFUL IN CHOOSING AND APPLYING ANY INSECTICIDE. Choose a product designed for the intended use and follow directions for application, storage, and disposal carefully.
• Be aware that moth balls, flakes, or crystals (naphthalene or paradichlorobenzene) are ineffective in moth control for rugs. These materials act only as a minor repellent to moths. They do not kill moth larvae, and the naphthalene odor can be unpleasant and difficult to remove from the rug. Cedar scent is useless as prevention for moth damage.

Five Must-Do Steps

1. Never have your Oriental rug or fine wool area rug cleaned in your home. Cleaning Oriental rugs and fine rugs requires specialized equipment and should be done by a specialist in Oriental/Fine rug care.
2. Rotate your rugs often, typically once per year.
3. Avoid direct sunlight exposure to your fine rugs, if possible.
4. Vacuum your area rugs regularly, avoid using the beater bar vacuum on the rug fringes.
5. Use a carpet pad beneath your fine rug. Quality pads will extend the life of your fine rug.

Do you know that a rug has to be properly prepared prior to storage? Find out more.

If you plan on storing your rugs, particularly for an extended period of time, it is recommended that you have a professional prepare your rug. However, if you plan to do it yourself, it is recommended that you follow these simple steps to properly prepare and store your rug:

• When a rug is to be stored for more than a few months it should be cleaned, sprayed with insecticide, and wrapped in protective plastic or a tough synthetic paper like “Tyvek”® building paper.
• Don’t use newspaper or common brown wrapping paper. These materials are not chemically stable (they are usually quite acidic), and do not provide the protection from insects or moisture the stored rug needs.
• Make sure the rug is completely dry before wrapping and storing.
• Moth balls or moth flakes are not recommended. These materials have little insect repellent effect, and the odor they impart to the rug can be difficult to remove. Cedar scent is useless in moth control.
• Store the rug in a clean, dry place out of the reach of squirrels or other rodents.
• Periodic inspection of the rug is strongly recommended.

Stain Removal General Procedure

Always rub or brush lightly from outer edge toward the center of stain to prevent spreading or causing “the ring” when using solvents, specially on twist rugs and pile carpets. On old, dry or stubborn stains, saturate, blot and brush. Repeat this procedure as often as necessary to remove the stain completely.

How to Clean Stains

• Work Quickly
• Blot up excess spills with paper towels. Do not rub.
• Apply Antidote with a clean dry cloth, working from edge to center.
• Do not soak.
• Path with paper towels. Dry with fan or hair blower.
• Restore pile with clothes brush.

Removing Wax

Put blotter or brown paper bag over the spot. Use a hot iron over the blotter. Wait a few minutes until the wax is absorbed into the blotter. Repeat if necessary. Move the iron constantly to prevent scorching.

Remove Ink

Saturate the spot with a cloth soaked in the vinegar or alcohol. Absorb with paper towels and dry immediately.

Removing Chewing Gum

Press ice cubes against the spot. Wait until it becomes brittle and breaks off. Use spot remover to vanish last traces of the spot.

Pet urine can cause permanent damage to your floors and fabrics. It can also create an unhealthy indoor environment. When urine is first deposited onto a floor or fabric, it has a pH of about 5 or 6, which is on the acid side of the pH Scale. It is easier to remove right then when it is fresh. Once it dries it turns “alkaline” or to a high pH between 10 to 12 on the scale and becomes more difficult to remove. The warm acid state of the urine offers a perfect breeding ground for bacteria, which begin to flourish almost immediately.

In this original acid state the urine begins to oxidize and react with the carpet to create a color change, which will become permanent if the urine is not removed immediately. Some of this color change can be attributed to the strong ammonia that forms as the urine passes through bacterial and chemical change. If left for days or weeks, depending on the fabric or floor type, it will change the dye structure, therefore causing permanent staining. Even if the soluble deposits are removed, the damage to the dye structure may already be done.

There are two sources of odors associated with urine. The first comes from bacteria that grow abundantly in dark warm places with a never ending food source. A pet can feed the bacteria daily! This bacteria growth and breakdown of the urine creates amino acids. These complex organic compounds will often work deep into the fibers to a point of becoming part of the fiber.

This can present a challenging situation. The waste materials and gases from the decomposing urine create an unpleasant odor. When dried urine is remoistened, it gives off an ammonia gas. If smelled once it is seldom forgotten.

The second source of odor is chemical odor that is present even when the bacteria have been killed. This explains the reason that more than sanitizing is necessary to neutralize odors from urine. Urine also presents additional odor problems when the relative humidity is high. The salts and crystals that are left behind as the urine dries are hydrophilic and draw water to them. Dried urine is often easy to smell in the humid months because the salts attract the moisture, the moisture evaporates putting out a greater proportion of odorous ammonia gas. You must get rid of the urine salts in and under the carpet to get rid of the odor. That’s why cleaning existing urine spots WILL NOT remove any associated odor. In fact, it could INCREASE the odor in the air space for a temporary period of time.

The Best Cleaning Agents For Urine Enzymes are the best cleaning agent for urine, vomit and feces. An enzyme is the only cleaning agent that actually eats up the bad bacteria. For the best results use an enzyme spotter after you have rinsed the carpet, especially if the spot is not a fresh one. Always read the directions before use!

Products to Avoid

Try to stay away from products with high pH such as ammonia, Resolve and oxygen bleaches. These products will leave the carpet with a residue and in a high pH state, which will enable the carpet to attract dirt like a magnet. In some instances the use of the wrong product can cause the urine stain to be permanent. Please call Arslanian Brothers first if you are not sure about a product you may want to try.

Regular professional carpet cleaning is key to maintaining the look and life of your carpets as well as improving the overall health of your home.

Your carpets are a large investment and you want them to last a long time. Regular cleaning will help you properly maintain your carpet. Although renting a carpet cleaner at your local supermarket may seem like an efficient and economical way to clean your carpets, the cleaning method and results are not as the same as a professional cleaning. Additionally, regular use of a do-it-yourself carpet cleaning may actually reduce the look and life of your carpet.

Professionally cleaned carpets also improve the health of your home. Carpets regularly retain large amounts of particulate matter including dust, dirt, dander and other allergy-exacerbating indoor air contaminants. Professional cleaning reduces the amount of allergens in your carpet, improving the indoor air quality of your home.

Of course, having your carpets professionally cleaned results in a clean looking carpet, but did you know that a professionally cleaned carpet stays cleaner for longer. The do-it-yourself cleaning solutions often leave a residue, leaving your carpet more susceptible to attracting dirt even shortly after you have cleaned it yourself. Professional cleaning solutions are more effective at cleaning and typically residue-free so not only are your carpets cleaner but they will stay cleaner for longer.

Once you understand the benefits of having your carpet professionally cleaned, how often shall you do it? Depending on your use and soil level, once to twice a year is typically recommended. However, there are steps that you can take to maintain your carpet between professional cleanings. Regular vacuuming and application of a carpet protectant can help maintain your carpets between regular cleaning appointments.

Before our visit, we ask you to please remove any small furniture and breakables off of end tables. Also if you have pet, please run the vacuum before we arrive for service. The following are additional suggestions to help you prepare for your carpet cleaning appointment.

1. Please remove the following from areas that are going to be cleaned: magazine racks, floor plants, small items, breakable items and breakable items from furniture to be cleaned
2. Please pin-up and/or secure the following: full-length draperies (pin at least 6” off the floor), skirts on upholstered furniture and beds
3. Computer equipment, china cabinets, sectional sofa, entertainment centers, antique and fragile furniture cannot be moved. However carpet underneath such items can be cleaned where sufficient room is available. We can also edge right around the base.
4. During the pre-inspection, please advise the technician of any special instructions to follow when moving your furniture. Please communicate any information about weak furniture legs, loose tops or previous repairs.
5. Please advise the technician of any spots or stains which may require special cleaning techniques.
6. It is advised to remove pets to a safe, quiet place so that our cleaning will not disturb them.

Post-Cleaning Considerations

1. Please leave the plastic “tabs” and “blocks” under your furniture for 48 hours after cleaning.
2. As a safety precaution, please do not let your children or pets crawl or lie down on the carpet until it is completely dry.
3. Please use extreme caution when walking from damp carpet to any hard surface area as it may be slippery.

Pile reversal and shading, also known as carpet or rug shading or watermarking, is a common issue in the carpet cleaning industry. It refers to a phenomenon where areas of a carpet or rug appear darker or lighter than the surrounding areas, creating a visible pattern or texture difference. This issue is often caused by changes in the orientation of carpet fibers due to foot traffic or vacuuming. These changes can result in the reflection of light at different angles, making some areas look shaded or reversed.

When pile reversal takes place, it is often difficult to return the carpet to its original appearance. However, here are a few things that can be done to help the carpet. Addressing pile reversal and shading typically involves professional cleaning methods, such as steam cleaning or pile brushing, to restore the carpet's uniform appearance.

Read More at https://cleanfax.com/pile-reversal-and-shading/

Keep your tile floors looking great with these key tips!

Proper care of your floor prevents damage, extends its life and keeps it looking new for years. How do you properly care for your tile flooring? A little routine maintenance and care following these simple tips will keep your tile floors looking the best.

• Try to keep dirt off your tile floors. Easier said than done but any effort to keep dirt off the floors will extend their life in the long run. Dirt and grime are like sand paper grinding down the surface of your tile. Simply taking your shoes off before you walk across your tile floors will help to keep your floor cleaner and in better condition.
• Vacuum and/or sweep your tile floors on a weekly basis. High-traffic areas may require more frequent attention.
• Damp mop weekly. Heavily soiled floors or high-traffic areas may need more frequent mopping. Floors should always be vacuumed or swept prior to mopping.
• Make sure that you use a pH neutral cleaner. Detergents and soaps can dull the surface and leave a residue.
• Protect your tile floor from damage. Use protective mats in entryways and protective pads on the feet of furniture to prevent scratching.